Here’s exactly how I transformed a $50 set of bedsides into something I’ve listed for $475.
This is one of the easiest flips for beginners — low cost, simple process, and a really solid return if you get it right.
Full transparency – I used materials I already had on hand to keep costs down.
Step 1: Source the right piece
I get asked all the time where I find my pieces — and honestly, it’s usually Facebook Marketplace or local op shops.
When I’m choosing something to flip, I look for:
• Solid timber
• Good structure (no wobbling)
• A simple shape
I picked these up for $50, which is exactly what you want — low risk, high potential. If you can get them cheaper, by all means..but I loved this style. The little bun feet add just enough character.
Step 2: Remove the Hardware
First thing I do is remove all the existing hardware. This makes sanding and painting much easier, as you’re not working around knobs or handles.
Most of the time, it’s pretty straightforward — just grab a screwdriver or drill and remove the screws.
However, with older pieces, you might find that wooden handles have been glued on. If that’s the case, you may need to gently knock them off with a hammer.
Step 3: Clean Properly
Before anything else, give your piece a proper clean. This is one step you absolutely don’t want to skip. If you don’t clean it properly, all that built-up dirt and grime can get pushed into the surface and affect your finish later on.
I use:
- Sugar soap or dishwashing liquid mixed with warm water
- Then go back over it with clean warm water
This removes any residue so your primer and paint can actually adhere properly.
Step 4: Strip the Top and Base
For this piece, I stripped the top and bottom.
You can go straight in with sanding, but stripping first cuts down your sanding time significantly.
My go-to is Poly paint stripper from Bunnings. I apply a thick layer (like, really thick) with an old paintbrush and let it sit for around 10–15 minutes before scraping it off.
You can wipe off any excess with warm water, or methylated spirits works well too.
Make sure you follow all safety guidelines — it’s important to use the right protective gear and dispose of the stripper properly.
Step 5: Sanding
Now that the finish has been removed, it’s time to start sanding.
I usually start at 120 grit unless there are deeper dents or scratches — in that case, I’ll start at 80 grit. These were in great condition, so 120 grit was perfect.
For the raw timber areas:
- 120 grit → remove any remaining finish
- 180 grit → smooth it out
- 240 grit → final prep
A good tip is to draw across the surface with a pencil — this helps you see if you’re sanding evenly and not rushing through the grits.
Make sure to wipe down the surface with a microfibre cloth after each grit to remove any dust before moving on.
I scuff sanded the body with 180 grit as I was painting it. This isn’t about removing the existing finish — it’s about creating a light texture and just removing the shine so the primer can adhere properly
Tip: If you’re sanding bun feet — stick the screw in your drill and spin it to sand. Sooo much faster.
You can thank me later.
Step 6: Prime
I used Zinsser shellac-based primer as it was just what I had on hand. it’s definitely a bit pricier than a water-based primer, which I could have got away with as I was painting a darker colour.
After the first coat I always check for dents and imperfections and fill if needed.
These were in great condition, so I skipped filling and instead went over everything with a 400 grit sanding sponge to smooth it out before painting.
These are my go to sanding sponges –> here.
Step 7: Paint
I used my Wagner spray gun with Wise Owl One Hour Enamel paint in ‘Soft Black‘. If you’re in Australia, this is available through Furniture Paint Shop Australia — I’ll link it here.
I did three coats, sanding lightly with a 400 grit sponge between each coat (except the final one).
It doesn’t matter whether you are rolling, brushing or spraying… sanding between each coat is what gives you that smooth, professional finish.
Step 8: Paint Wash the Timber
To tone down the pine and remove some of that yellow/orange, I used a paint wash. My ratio was:
- 1 part paint (I mixed a few colours together until I got the tone I liked)
- 5 parts water
I love paint washing — it’s so foolproof and such an easy way to get the timber to a tone you’re happy with.
You don’t need much paint at all — literally a dollop or two. My trick is to grab sample pots from Bunnings (they’re around $6 and will last you forever).
If you want a full guide on paint washing, I’ve got one here.
Step 9: Seal
I sealed the top using a water-based polyurethane. I used Cabot’s Cabothane here and mixed a 50/50 ratio of satin and matte.
I find that when I go straight satin, the sheen can look a bit plastic-y (I’m sure that’s a word), so adding some matte just softens it slightly and gives a more natural finish.
Since it’s a small surface and the body didn’t need a topcoat (Wise Owl paint is super durable), I applied the topcoat to the top and base with a roller.
I did three coats, sanding lightly between each one with a 400 grit sanding sponge (except the last… obviously).
Step 10: Update the Hardware
To keep costs low, I used what I already had on hand. They’re simple, on-trend, and pair really nicely with the Soft Black.
Most of the time, when you buy new hardware, it will come with a screw that you can cut down to size using pliers so it fits your piece properly.
Fun fact — when I did my first flip, adding new hardware actually threw me.. why are all the screws so damn long?? I remember my brother-in-law saying, “just cut the screw to size with pliers,” and it was like a lightbulb moment.
So simple… but if you don’t know, you just don’t know, right?
Step 11: List for Sale
I listed the set on Facebook Marketplace for $475.
I have done a similar set in a lighter colour before and it has been one of my most popular flips to date! I am interested to see how the darker ones compare.
Final Thoughts
This is the kind of flip I’d recommend if you’re just starting out.
Low cost, simple process, and a really good return if you take your time with the prep.
If you’re keen to learn more, I’ve got more step-by-step guides and a beginner-friendly flipping guide coming soon. Make sure you SUBSCRIBE HERE to be the first to know!
I hope this helps you feel confident to give flipping furniture a go! It’s a lot of fun and I would love to see your creations.
Follow along on Instagram or TikTok for step-by-step videos and more Flips, Tips and DIYs.
Cheers,
Kim
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