This piece started out as one of those dated old hutches that had loads of potential, but also… just a bit boring. Thick varnish, chunky base, orange timber — the whole lot. But the bones were beautiful, so I knew it deserved a second life.
I really wanted to keep as much of the natural timber as possible, while still modernising the rest. So this makeover was all about balance — fresh paint, lighter timber, and cleaner lines.
If you are more of a visual person then head on over to my Instagram or TikTok to watch this project come to life.
Here’s exactly how I did it — step by step.
1. Remove all the doors, drawers, and hardware
First things first: everything comes off. Handles, hinges, doors, drawers — the lot.
It’s so much easier to clean, sand and paint when nothing is in the way. I keep all the screws and hinges together in a container so I’m not hunting around later.
Hot tip: label things as you remove them — drawers, doors, hinges, the whole lot.
Because let me tell you… there is nothing worse than trying to figure out what came from where when things don’t perfectly line up again down the track.
2. Clean off the grime
Before touching a sander, I always deep clean.
I use a degreaser to remove old wax, oils and kitchen grime. I normally just go for sugar soap but honestly you could just use dish washing detergent. This step is SO important. If you just went straihgt in with a sander you can push all the grime down into the timber and it will really impact the integrity of your finish.
After degreasing, I wiped everything back with clean water and let it dry. Not glamorous, but honestly it’s probably the most important step.
…p.s this is a great time to get yourself a hot cuppa! Before it gets dusty!
3. Strip away the the finish
Anywhere I wanted that raw timber look, I stripped back the old finish first. I am no gate keeper so I will tell you that Poly Paint Stripper is the best in the biz! *chefs kiss*. But take it from me… you must wear PPE.
This step can be a bit messy, so I do recommend popping down a disposable paint sheet before you get started.
It really is as simple as spreading it on with a paint brush and scraping it off. I usually wait 15-30 minutes before I scrape it off. The key is to laying it on thick so it doesn’t dry out. If it does, no stress just put another thin layer over top and you should be good to go. To clean off the residue you can go in with water or methylated spirits and wiping it down.
Stripping before sanding saves SO much time and effort when it comes to sanding. It’s particularly useful when you are working on veneer as you certainly don’t want to over sand otherwise you risk burning through.
4. Building a new base
Updating the base on a piece of furniture is honestly one of the easiest ways to modernise it. I know it can feel intimidating — building bases was actually one of my goals for 2025 because it seemed so complicated. But I promise you… it’s easy peasy lemon squeezy (as my 4-year-old would say!).
On this piece, the base really dated it — and it was a bit wobbly — so removing it was a no-brainer. The hardest part was actually tipping the whole thing onto its back. It was SO heavy. But where there’s a will, there’s a way!
I used a hammer to remove most of the edging, and then cut away the remaining sections that were fixed more securely. Take your time here and measure everything carefully — you want the bottom to be even and level so you don’t end up with a wobbly buffet later on.
I’m actually working on a dedicated tutorial all about building furniture bases, so if you want a full step-by-step on that, make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss it… hint hint.
5. Sanding
For the timber areas that I wanted to keep raw, I worked through the sanding grits: 120 → 180 → 240. This smooths everything out nicely and gets the wood ready for the paint wash later. Don’t rush this part — skipping grits really does show in the final finish.
If you are new to sanding a good trick is to draw on the timber before you start. As you sand, the lines will slowly disappear. If they vanish evenly, you’re good to move on. If some stay behind, keep sanding gently until they catch up.
For the sections that were going to be painted, I didn’t strip everything back. Instead, I did a simple scuff sand with 180 grit. The goal isn’t perfection here — you just want to dull the shine and even out any imperfections so the primer has something to grab onto. If it still looks glossy, give it another quick pass.
You will find that for most pieces there will be an element of hand sanding and I just want to say.. I’m sorry in advance…it’s not the funnest but the outcome is worth it!
6. Prep and Prime
If cleaning is the most important step, then prepping and priming is a very close second. If you skip this — or rush it — you’ll almost always regret it later. The good news is, it’s actually really simple to do properly.
For this project, I used a shellac-based primer — mostly because it’s what I already had on hand. My go-to is Zinsser Shellac Primer. It’s definitely on the pricier side, but in my experience, it’s absolutely worth it.
Depending on the piece, I’ll do one or two coats of primer. After the first coat is when I like to go in and fill any imperfections such as dents, cracks or bumps. If there are lots of repairs, I’ll do a full re-coat of primer afterwards — otherwise I’ll just spot-prime the patched areas.
The trick to achieving a really smooth finish — whether you’re rolling, brushing or spraying — is to sand lightly between each coat (except the final one). I run a 400-grit sanding sponge by hand over the whole piece to knock back any rough spots before moving on.
Once the primer was dry, I did a quick scratch test in an inconspicuous spot. If the primer scratches off easily, it usually means it either needs more cure time, or the prep needed a bit more sanding. Better to find out now than after you’ve painted the whole thing!
7. Paint Wash the timber
To lighten and neutralise the timber, I used a diluted paint wash — usually somewhere between a 1:3 or 1:5 ratio (paint to water), depending on the colour I’m chasing. For this piece, I used Savannah by Dulux, simply because it’s what I already had. You don’t need much for a wash, so I usually just grab the little sample pots from Bunnings.
This was especially helpful on this piece because the base was Tasmanian Oak (which throws more red tones), while the other sections were pine (which tends to lean yellow). The paint wash helps bring everything back to a more even, neutral tone so the woods don’t visually fight each other.
The great thing about paint washing is that it’s super beginner-friendly — you really can’t go too wrong. If you’re new to it, start with a 1:5 ratio so you can slowly build colour in layers if needed. And if you go too heavy, just give it a light sand and try again.
The trick for a natural-looking finish is to always wipe on and off in the direction of the grain. I use either a sponge or brush to apply and then a microfibre cloth to remove. The longer you leave the wash sitting on the timber, the less translucent it will be. And remember — once you apply a top coat, the timber will deepen slightly in colour..
8. Paint and Seal
Once the paint wash was done and everything was dry, I moved on to painting the rest of the piece with my Wagner Spray gun – an absolute game changer when it comes to efficiency and flawless finish. I always use a water-based enamel, which is typically used on doors and trims because of its durability. The colour for this project is ‘Ecology Green’ by Dulux — and to say I’m obsessed is an understatement.
I apply 2–3 thin coats, letting each one dry properly before moving on, and I lightly sand between coats with 400 grit. Thin coats level out better and avoid that thick, gloopy painted-furniture look that tends to chip later. If I’m spraying (and sometimes even when rolling), I’ll dilute the paint slightly — it increases the open time and helps everything level out beautifully.
Even though you technically don’t have to seal water-based enamel, anything I intend on selling gets 2–3 coats of water-based polyurethane because I want it to be as durable as possible. I sealed both the painted sections and the timber using Cabot’s Water-Based Polyurethane, but I mixed it 50/50 satin and matte because I didn’t want too much sheen. Again — sanding between coats, except for the final one!
9. Finishing Touches
Once the paint, wash and top coat had fully cured, it was time for my favourite part — adding the hardware and putting everything back together. I reinstalled the doors and drawers, attached the new handles, and suddenly the whole makeover really came to life.
The combination of fresh paint, softened timber tones and the brand new base completely transformed this old hutch & buffet into something that feels modern, warm and genuinely special. It honestly looks like a totally different piece.
I hope this step-by-step makeover gives you the confidence to try something similar — whether you’ve got a hutch & buffet, a sideboard, or any old piece that deserves a second chance.
If you try a makeover like this, I’d absolutely love to see it — you can always tag me over on Instagram or TikTok at @ontheflipside.kb. And if you enjoyed this tutorial, stick around — I’m slowly building this space into a hub for Flips, Tips & DIYs.
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